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Still here. A bit about Dementia Dolls…

Settle in. This is a long one.

I am still here, just not up to much blogging.  Still sending out book folding templates, still knitting, not scrapbooking or doing much papercraft at all really.  Spent a day in A&E After Maddie shoved a pitchfork right thru her foot at the garden centre of her college. Fun.

But for my little bit of social interaction I pop over to the local Library every Friday morning for a couple of hours.  Mostly I knit there, and chat.  Jack is coming over from LA for a visit and he wants socks, so I worked out a way to knit 2 pairs of socks at the same time, at first on two circulars and then all four on one, once I no longer had to wrangle the 4 balls of yarn.  No photos, sorry, but I’ll probably do it again.

As part of the craft club, we had a presentation from the local Dementia UK group.  They needed Twiddle Muffs and we made lots of them.  The also showed a large, floppy doll and said that they would like a few of them as well, if anyone was so inclined.  No one really was but I like a challenge so I decided to make one.  The first one was done in the normal way, although I did abandon the complicated and all-in-bits pattern and adapted it to an in-the-round version.  She was sweet, but she’s gone now – again no photo. Again, sorry.

The Dementia lady came back the next week to find me.  She told me a lovely story about a woman in one of the care homes who has never been responsive, or engaged, and who has never spoken, since they have been visiting.  Apparently when she saw the doll she gasped and dashed right for it.  She grabbed it, hugged and cuddled it, then started singing it a lullaby while she rocked it.  She is much more engaged in the … meetings? Sessions, maybe, now that she has the doll.  I was asked very nicely if I could make another.

About this time I had gotten a couple of knitting machines.  Circular ones, that I thought would be helpful for twiddle muff making.

Finally, a photo!

I started with the toy one, then got the proper Addi, and at the same time ordered the Sentro via Amazon, but I suspect from China.  It was cheap, versus the Addi Kingsize (£30 vs £115!) None of them are EASY to use to make flat panels (the Sentro is best) but they all make pretty reasonable tubes. And fast. My plan had been to use up all my scraps of yarn to make the boring inside of the Twiddle Muffs then shift to needles to complete them with special stitches, odd yarn, beads, etc. Here are a few samples of the ones I’ve done.

I have a whole PDF on those which I may share at some point.

But then I thought I could possible use them to make Dementia Dolls if I took a minute to think about it.

These dolls are meant to be quite long-limbed and quite floppy.  I think they are more of a suggestion of a child than a real depiction of one.  Not at ALL like the last doll I made.  Anyone here remember Jasmine?

She was a LOT more complicated.  I am …. doll parts ….

Basically, the dolls are made of five tubes: one tube for the head and body, two for the legs and two for the arms. The head & body is 65 rounds on the 48-stitch machine and the legs are 65 rounds on the 22 stitch machine.  The arms are 28 rounds on the 22 stitch machine.  Sometimes I think more length on the arms would be better but when I have made them longer, 30 or 35 rounds, they look weird.

That yarn is aran weight (equal to worsted in the USA and what the machines like best) and much more beige than the weird grey it seems here.

I gather the top of the head&body tube

Then stuff the head and do a running stitch around to gather again for a neck.  It varies but generally I do between 25 and 30 stitches down from the gather.

I usually do the nose so I don’t lose track of where the face goes while I position the arms and attach the legs! I just build it up with stitches on top of stitches.

The head&body is 48 stitches around and the legs are 22 – that is determined by the machines.  There is some variation in the larger ones (there is a 40 stitch, a couple of 46 stitch ones and this 48) but all the small ones are, I believe, 22 stitches.  To attach the legs in the easiest way possible, I load 11 stitches from each leg tube onto a needle, then load 24 stitches from the front of the body onto another.

I do  a 3-needle bind-off to join those with a neat edge.  I decrease away the extra stitches from the body side by doing one from the leg and two from the body on the last stitch of the first leg and the first stitch of the second

This gives me a nice neat join. Make sure you put a locking stitch marker on the last stitch from your bind off, as you will load that back on the needle when you do the back half join to the back of the legs!

I stuff a little bit of toy stuffing in the bottom of each leg and gather them about 8-10 stitches up, to make a bit of a foot. The SUGGESTION of a foot anyway. Stuffing first means you don’t have to push the stuffing all the way down that long leg.

I load the leftover stitches on to the needles the same, 22 from each leg, 24 from the back of the body.

and slip on that last held stitch where I will start the 3-needle bind-off

This is the tricky part.  Now you have to stuff the legs and the body, pretty full.

It is impossible to get right-sides-together to do the same sort of 3-needle bind-off so I simply do it as you see it.  There is usually a gap where the extra stitches from the body are and that allows you to stuff it a bit more if need be.  The join looks fine for this doll’s purpose.

The arms are made by gathering each end of the arms and folding the tubes lengthwise.  I do a mattress stitch along the edges and stuff the tube lightly.

Sew the arms on and done.  I made this doll in about three hours.  With that kind of speed I can make many more dolls and hopefully help many more people.

I tend to dress them in whatever I have doll-clothes wise or what I can get in the charity shop from the baby clothes section.  3-6 month sizes work best.  I always do a simple face, just half-circle eyes and a half-circle mouth.  Like I said, they only need to be the suggestion of a child. I am experimenting with hair, trying to balance looks against speed.

Well, that is what I have been doing. Oh and I am finally knitting a summer top with some yarn I bought when Jack was a baby, from John Lewis in London.  It came back to me with our shipment of house stuff that had been stored back in the States for decades.  I guess maybe that is why I don’t blog much – my followers really aren’t knitters, primarily, so I feel they might be a bit bored.  If you made it all the way to the end, well done you.

Maybe I’ll be back sooner than my once every month or so schedule.


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My Nearly No-Sew knitted stuffed heart pattern. Again

I have been tweaking this pattern since I first posted it some two years ago.  I think I am happy with a couple of improvements so I am adding it again.

The biggest improvement is a little hack for making smooth KFB.  I have seen it a few times in various places – I think it is abbreviated as KFSB, or Knit Front, Slip Back.

Basically, you knit the front of the stitch then twist and insert your yarn as if you will knit into the back loop

Instead of knitting, you simply slip that loop over to the right needle.

You have still made another “stitch” (see the three loops where once there were two?) but it looks so much better and it is just a bit faster! The resulting increase is also a bit smoother that the usual KFB.

The harsh straight bars that you get with a KFB (and you can see a little trio of them in the smaller heart-tip) are instead a more gentle, angled bar.

I have taught this heart to a few people, and one aspect that occasionally give people trouble is working on the two “heart bumps” so I thought I would redo the photos for that and practice with my new phone’s camera.

Once you have completed the increases and are ready to do the heart bumps:

Knit the first 10 stitches on the front needle. Slip the last 10 stitches onto some scrap yarn – in this case scrap yarn is a better choice than a stitch marker!

It is a lot less likely to get in your way, because now you will knit only the 20 stitches on the right, 10 on the front needle and 10 on the back.

Once you knit to the end of the heart bump section, cut a long tail and thread a big-eye needle. Run the end thru the live stitches but DO NOT GATHER.

This is where you will stuff.

Now, thread the new yarn end onto your needle and (here comes the sewing bit) make a stitch or two to close the gap in the V of the heart.

Secure this so when you begin knitting it doesn’t loosen up. Now, working on the final 20 stitches, knit a round then repeat the instructions for the original heart bump.  If you are struggling to keep the final few stitches from gathering, slip a fat marker into the opening.

Stuff the heart and gently gather the two tops.

Either secure and weave in the ends OR thread each one thru your needle, insert and exit thru the centre V to create a hanger.

I’ve been stuffing them with lavender from our garden!  Did you know lavender repels the clothes moth?  I have spent too much time knitting socks only to sacrifice them to a hungry moth!

Here is the new pattern.  Hope you enjoy it!

 


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Trauma Teddy, Bobby Buddy, whatever.

{sigh} I have been fighting with the WordPress editor all morning.  I made a post but when I viewed it there were too many weird things happening (like 20 tin, near invisible lines at the end, and text that just kept getting smaller and smaller till at the bottom it was almost unreadable.I kept editing it and in the end I just gave up and deleted it.

I have no idea what was triggering it but I am not going to do it all over again and have it be more of the same.  So here is my PDF.

I did try to make a schematic/visual image of it, kinda like to Trauma Teddy image that is all over the internet, without much luck!

The original is pretty streamlined.  MINE is a bit chaotic, LOL!

My pattern is based (size-wise and stitch count) on the one available for the Dorset Police Bobby Buddies program – Get their pattern here

I wanted a minimal sewing version with no attached pieces. Almost got it! The radio will need to be stitched on for the Dorset Bobby Buddies. 
So long as there are NO BUTTONS or BEADS, this is suitable for that program and should also work for ANY trauma teddy scheme, if the size works.

I WILL add the photos of how to fold the unstuffed bear to match the right sides together and do the SECOND 3-needle bind off.  It;s the only bit that is even remotely tricky.

Once you have done the first 3-needle bind off

You need to fold the head over on to the body

Then fold the legs over on to the head

Then finally fold the upper body (yellow)over the legs – it’s hard to see because of the black, but the right side of the upper body and the right side of the lower body should be matched up for the second 3-needle bind off.

There are links within the PDF for tutorials or videos for some of the less common methods, like the Turkish cast on.

I’ve already sent off a bag of these and have more on the needles.  If you are in the UK, especially if you are in Dorset, feel free to join in the program.

And sorry to subscribers who got a link that disappeared.  Honestly, that post was a MESS. You didn’t miss anything! 🙂


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Trauma Teddies with very little sewing

NOTE:  I’ve removed the download as I have done a much more detailed PDF with links to tutorials or videos and removing some of the fiddly things like the head shaping and all of the purl stitches.  I want a final OK from the Dorset Bobby Buddies scheme before I post it.  Bookmark this and come back to it! (22 June 2018)

One of the ladies in my knitting group sent a message that the Dorset Police were calling for Trauma Teddies and included a new knitting pattern for it.  There is another more standard pattern out there, either written-out or as an image:

What they all have in common is the huge amount of “making-up” they require! I am NOT a fan of the sewing up at the end of any project and if I can figure out how to do it without, I will. Even if it is a little tricky to accomplish!  And while I am always a “belt and braces” person when sewing up for small kiddies, I still worry that an arm might come off, and ear get detached, whatever, and make the toy a hazard.  Silly, maybe, but an all-in-one method suits me on so many levels.

So I made one.

On the left is the one from the pattern from Dorset Police.  It is a really nicely proportioned teddy, and any wonkiness is totally down to my making-up skills.  Trust me – he does have two ears, I promise! The one in the middle is my first attempt to alter the pattern on the fly to make it an all-in-one version.  And the right hand one is my final pattern version.

Gosh that blue background (one of my office chairs) does it no favours! Let’s try that again with just the two:

Better – you can’t see the little antenna on the radio but other than that ….  So just a closer look at my version, with an idea of how I made it all-in-one:

Crazy, right?  But other than a few stitches above and below the arms and a couple of stitches to gather the ears (and the decorative stuff like the face and adding the radio) there is no real “making up” to do.   The only thing that is a little tricky is the second 3-needle bind off – and that isn’t that difficult so long as you don’t do any stuffing till you have accomplished it.  That way you can freely manipulate the body into position.

Yes, there is a bit of purling here, but if I am honest I don’t mind that – it gives my knitting muscles something a bit different to do!

I did write up a pattern but it assumes you are familiar with all those things (two-at-a-time, Turkish cast on or Judy’s magic cast on, a 3-needle bind off, pick-up and knit, garter stitch in the round…) so it isn’t going to be for everyone.  The simplicity of the original pattern (knit every row, no real shaping) is going to be a lot better for someone who wants to just knit fast and sew it all together at the end.  Whichever, charity knitting is all good!


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Nearly No-Sew Knitted Heart

Note: this pattern has been re-done to reflect a new technique and a slightly different shaping.  Some of what I say in the text may no longer apply!

A friend of mine has taken over a local knitting shop and I have been making a few things for her, both as display items and to add to her little section of handmade goodies for sale. She does super cute crochet bunting (love her beach huts!) and I thought I would make her some heart ones.

Now, you generally head to t’internet when you need a free pattern.  I did. I must have looked at 100 patterns.  They seemed to fall into two basic categories.  By far the most common was:  Knit a heart.  Knit another. Sew them together. I did not need to add “second heart syndrome” to my already terminal case of “second SOCK syndrome” so that was never going to work.  The second common one was to knit the heart in the round and graft the top of the heart bumps (or in one case knit back and forth then mattress stitch up the back.) Most used a M1 increase, with the opposing K2tog/SSK decreases.  That doesn’t bother me, except I tend to have to look at the pattern cause I will always forget which way they lean, so mix up how to load the M1 to make it go the way I want.  I hunted and hunted for a “lazy version” – i.e. knit it in the round, simple increases and decreases, and be done.  No such luck.

So I created a version that I like – and although it isn’t the most elegant heart, compared to the grafted ones, I think it is the fastest.  A bonus if you want to make 100 to decorate your wedding tables, especially if you are planning on hiding the middle V with flowers or something!

You can do them on DPNs, but the 3-stitch start is way easier with Magic Loop.  Slightly fiddly, but not enough to offset having to make 2!

I’ve also added the trick for a smoother KFB.  That is to knit into the front of the stitch but then, rather than knitting into the BACK, slip the needle in and scoot the back off onto the right needle.  You have still made two “stitches” from one, and no unsightly bar.  So the MK1 instructions have been removed from the pattern.

Here is the pattern.  And here are some photos to explain the heart bump sections.

This shows knitting the first half, then slipping the stitches on to a holder.

Take a moment to note how stinkin’ cute my stitch marker is LOL!

Work the first heart bump section on one side,

and thread the tail thru the final stitches but DO NOT GATHER.

Now, with the new end of the yarn, thread a needle.  Use this to secure the middle stitches.

I like to knit the first stitch with the end and the working yarn together, for a more secure join.

Then carry on and knit a round (to match the round that you used to divide the heart) then repeat the heart bump stitches again.

Stuff and gather the tops. Use the tails if you need a couple more stitches to close the middle once it is stuffed.  This is cotton yarn and it is a lot less forgiving than wool or even acrylic – it doesn’t spring back when stretched so another stitch or two is sometimes needed.

See what I mean?  A lot less elegant than grafting the few top stitches, but a lot less work too.

You can play around with the stitch count as well as the needle size and yarn.  Just use a smaller needle that the yarn calls for so you get a nice tight weave and so the stuffing doesn’t show thru.  I think the very smallest one did the 2-round-knit-pairs after there were 14 stitches on each needle and stopped with 18 stitches rather than 20.  You can also add more 2-round-knit-pairs for a longer, more folk-art style heart.  The white heart had an additional 2-round-knit-pair after the 14 per needle round, as well as after the 16 per needle round. When you read the instructions, that will make sense!

I made a quick hanger, by threading the three hearts on a length of yarn, with knots to separate.

I need a much slimmer needle so I can add beads instead – with them snugged up to the V, they will totally hide the few closing stitches.

I am working on another thing, and another book-folding alphabet, by request, but I’ve had side effects with two of my heart meds (hands up if you hate statins!) and it is causing me problems.  I’ve already ditched the tickle-y cough by changing one med and with luck now I am off the statins, I’ll start to feel more energetic.  Hopefully I’ll finish both by the end of the week. But I doubt I will ever return to daily blogging.

Hope you enjoy.

 

 


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While I am waiting….

I seems to be spending a lot of time sitting in waiting rooms, of all kinds, and sitting in the car, on the way to places.  So boring.  I find that those moments are perfectly suited to knitting.  Now the Innocent Smoothie hats are going to be appearing in stores  this month, and any tiny hats I made would be sitting around in a box till the next call, I moved on to socks.

My feet are always cold.  One of the side effects of the heart medication, I read.  So it’s practical knitting, selfish knitting.  And I am to the point I can make a pair of socks in my sleep – well, almost.  But I did stumble across some videos for hand-dyeing yarn.  I also stumbled across some superwash wool my MIL had sent me a few years back, destined to become slippers, I think.  As so often happens, Those two things, at the forefront of my brain, became a new obsession.  I had cake decorating colours, and a crockpot, and literally in a few hours, I had completed a few firsts:

  • made a niddy noddy out of PVC piping
  • wound a hank
  • dyed the yarn in the crockpot
  • hanked it again to dry

I find it super difficult to get a good photo of the yarn but maybe this will give you an idea of what it looks like – nicely mottled, firery colours (although I used Creamy Peach, Pink, and Lemon Yellow, I def. got RED, ORANGE and Yellow!

1stkettledye

And as it knits:

knitted

Then I had to try something I saw on Ravelry, when DS woke me in the middle of the night (he is still very much on a student sleep schedule) playing the guitar. The AABBABAB dyeing sequence produced fab socks for her, less so for me, either because I didn’t measure to estimate the size my socks would be, or because I didn’t leave any of the bare yarn undyed, or because there was too little contrast between the green and the teal.  But it DID give me a nifty two-colour pattern with small pools of colour – not quite stripes but not uniformly mottled like the red/orange/yellow version, where it was all just dumped into the crockpot in areas.  Hard to see, again, but maybe a bit?

pooling

You can see it best on the toe.

So THEN I had to take some more PVC piping and make a warping board (is it really warping?  I see WRAPPING as often) sort of like this one, but a bit simpler, so I could try to dye self-striping yarn!

wrap

If you click the image you can go see the YouTube video of him wrapping it so you can see how it works.

That worked.  Dyed in the microwave, it took less time than the crockpot.

selfstrip

2yarndye

Now, since I wasn’t too sure it would work, I’ve used superwash, DK weight wool yarn for all these experiments.  The skein fir this last one, because I was so unsure of success, was only a 50 gm skein. Not enough for even a shortie pair of ankle socks.  So I paired it with some plain black, knitting the toe and every other row in the black, with alternating stripes of the hand-dyed yarn.  It’s working – I can clearly see that the yarn IS self-striping! Yippee!

2selfstrip

There is a pink, a teal, a purple, a cranberry, and a royal blue (just coming up on the ball) and I should be able to get two socks from the one 50 gm skein if I do the cuff in black too. It looks like I am getting about 6 rows for each striping section so I must have done something right.

I have one other pair I made using yarn dyes with Violet food colouring, which “broke” beautifully into it’s core colours of purple, blue and pinky red, but I think the socks are in the laundry so no photo.  Read about Breaking Black (although it works with Violet and some blues too) to see what THAT is all about.

I do have some skeins of blank sock yarn to try next.  But it is on a very long To Do list. While the knitting I can do a few minutes at a time, the DYEING takes at least a bit of focused time, and a lot of waiting – mixing the colours takes only a moment, heating the water takes ages (unattended), dumping in the dye takes seconds, waiting for the dye to absorb takes ages (unattended), cooling takes ages (unattended), rinsing takes ages (active), drying takes ages (unattended), then comes the knitting.   That is for crockpot dyeing.  The self-striping and the dyed-to-pool AABBABAB dyeing are MUCH more of active processes and can take a few hours.  That kind of time is hard to find at the moment.

Just thought I’d share, lest you think it is all about the book folding.  I have a long list of printables I hope to do but now we are in 2016 and I have made so many 2016 calendars already, it’s hard to imagine doing even MORE and it’s too soon to do 2017 ones….isn’t it?

{the can of worms slowly opens…..}

 


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Really. The last hats for The Big Knit

I only have about 10 hats to go.  Phew.  Problem is I get bored making the same ones, but they cannot be complicated or time-consuming cause time is short.  I have a couple more variations that take no more time than the basic hats (well, nearly) and one that takes a bit longer but is stupid cute, I think.

1. The first one looks like it has a little yarn mohawk. this is the one that take a little bit longer.  But it isn’t hard.

Make the standard, 28 stitch hat, two purl rows, 12 stocking stitch rows, then cast off.  Don’t do a fancy cast off, no need.  Cut 28 lengths of yarn (about 4 inches long) then fold them in half.  Fold the hat in half.  Using a yarn needle or a crochet hook, pull the fold thru the two cast off stitched and slip the ends thru it to seal the top edge and create the fringe.

fringetop

2. The other one is even simpler.  Create the standard hat, do the decrease rows, and cut with a LONG tail, at least 12-15 inches.  Thread the end thru the last stitches to close the top and pull it snug.  Slip a crochet hook into the hat and pull up a loop from the tail.  Chain at least 10, but more works too.  Pull the tail thru to secure the chain then add the pompom to this tail. Adorbs.

3pomtop

WAY easier than the decreased long tail hats.  And you can tart it up, as usual, with additions:

pomtop

Or even add another colour:

2pomtop

3. On that one, I did a pattern at the top that creates a little starburst.  I did two colours but it works equally well with just one. Make the basic hat but stop stocking stitch at row 9.

  • Row 10: K2, P2
  • Row 11: K2tog, P2tog
  • Row 12: K1, P1
  • Row 13: K2tog

This makes a cute central star that works well with the crochet tail.  I may try adding a punch of crochet tails and see how that looks.

We are doing the Thanksgiving feast tonight as last night was too tight on time, so lots to do.  If I get time I’ll update this with more step-by step photos but until then, I hope the verbal description will help anyone who wants to make one!

 


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Sorry, still with the hats….

Just working on the last group of hats for The Big Knit.  I have a couple more of my own designs, including a “long-tailed hat” and a corkscrew curl one.

The long tail one is the basic hat up to round 10 – cast on 28, purl 2 rounds, knit eight rounds and then a series of decreases. Since I work them all Magic Loop, the decreases are worked first on the front needle then on the back needle, NOT around – the knit stitches at the beginning and end of the needle makes for a nice, graduated decrease, rather than stair-steps, so it is a bit of a pain but super-cute:

longtailhat

The long-tail flops over nicely.  In a bit of a green phase, I guess. I like the jingle bells instead of the pompom sometimes:

2longtailhat

The other one is also the basic hat, just with the addition of some crochet corkscrews – again, easy to do, just a chain of about 20, then 4 sc in one loop of each if the chain stitches to the end.

2corkscrew

and so cute as a topper!

corkscrew

The array:

lotsofhats

And a couple of close-up ones:

specialty

Beaded edges, added snowflakes, and little wreaths.  The snowflake ones will certainly work for February, when they go on sale.  I will probably make a lot more of the ones with the little crochet hearts stitched on, and I have some red heart buttons as well.

I should finish up in the next few days and send them off in the mail.  I’ve enjoyed the process.


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One last easy The Big Knit hat pattern

Again, not so much a pattern as a method, with details.  I do like this one. it’s very simple but looks adorable on the bottle.

4turkishcastonhat

It is super simple.  Well, except for the Turkish cast on.

Turkish cast on can be tricky if it is new to you, but not very tricky.  You are essentially wrapping the yarn around both needles, the slipping one out and knitting the first side of the wraps, then flipping it as if for Magic Loop and knitting the other side of the wraps.  Here are a couple of links to people who show you better than I could how to do it. First a video:

and a link to still shots. Both are useful, and there are 100 others if neither suit you.

Pattern:

Turkish cast on for 28 stitches.

turkishcastonhat

Knit 12 rounds

Purl 2 rounds

Cast off using a stretchy bind off.

Use the stretchy one you prefer.  There are loads.  I use the Decrease method. That is essentially *k2togtbl, slip the stitch on your right needle and place it back on your left needle, repeat from * until all stitches are bound off. You can see it in more detail here.  Video and photos.

2turkishcastonhat

It looks good with either the floppy pompom, or a little tassel, and I bet the fork-sized pompom are cute too!

3turkishcastonhat


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The floppy pompom and the textured hat pattern for The Big Knit

I mentioned another hat pattern the other day and here they are again, to remind you.

3woyww337

floppy

This is a basic bee stitch pattern, worked in the round. You can see the bee stitch here.

Textured Bee Stitch hat pattern

  • Cast on 28 stitches and divide for Magic Loop.  Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
  • Purl two rows

Pattern rows:

  1. K1, k1B
  2. purl
  3. K1B, k1
  4. purl

Repeat these four rows two more times, for a total of 12 pattern rows.

  • Repeat row 1
  • K2tog (7 stitches on each needle)
  • K2tog across first needle, k1  then K2tog across second needle, k1

thread the tail thru the stitches on the needle and pull tight. Finish off and weave in ends.

If you wanted to make this as a flat hat and sew up the side seam, just swap the PURL rows for KNIT rows.  or the K2tog rows, just do that for the length of the needle.  Even easier.

Now, this isn’t rocket science, but in case you can’t work it out, here is how I make my floppy pompoms:

Fold a piece of yarn that is about 10 inches in half.  Drop the folded yarn between your fingers.

floppypom

Wrap yarn around your fingers. Don’t get the looped yarn caught up in your wrapping.  It’ll depend on how fluffy you want your pompom, and how big your hand is, but I do about 25 wraps.

2floppypom

 

Thread the two loose tails around the wrapped yarn and thru the loop.  Pull tight.  Wrap the ends back around and tighten.  Tie off tightly.

3floppypom

5floppypom

Snip the loops.

6floppypom

Give it a good shake by the tails.

7floppypom

You can leave it as is or you can trim smaller.

9floppypom

Secure the pop pom to the top of the hat with the tails. This works with standard little hats too, and I bet it would look cute with lots more wraps on a big hat as well!

10floppypom

8floppypom