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Manly Photo Cube and 2015 tear-off calendar printables

Last week I used some grid/graph paper to make a card.  As the tablet was still kicking around on my desk, I thought I might use it to make a “manly” photo cube.  I don’t know about the men in your life, but the men in MINE have one rule – nothing too frilly, flowery or indeed colourful when it comes to gifts for them.  They are both sort of OK with a colourful CARD, I just know not to expect them to display it anyplace public (like DH and his desk, or DS in his apartment anywhere really) so they look then leave it at home where *I* can display it if I like.

The problem with grid/graph paper, or at least with what I have on hand, is it’s in a tablet with holes  for a ring binder.  That makes it less than the required 8 inches.  But you can overcome that.  And grid paper is manly, right? I made my cube using two different types of graph paper – just for a little more interest.

gridcube

It’s all about the position of the ring-binder holes.  Start by folding the paper in half, matching the holes – this is fine because you are going to make that fold anyway when folding the cube sides.  Lucky, that.

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Cut the sheet to 4 inches. This will position the holes just right on that side.

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Depending on your paper, and mine is an A4 UK tablet, square off the sheet by trimming to 8 inches on the other side.

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Now to fold.  Go back to the post with the basic instructions for the photo cube.  When you come to the fold that brings the sides in, make sure the holes are  positioned like this:

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When you fold the side, the holes are going to be hidden.

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For a cube made from 8 inch squares, you need a 4 inch (with a smidge trimmed off) insert for each side (unless you add the base side with the insert side facing inward, to give a flatter base) and 12  hinges that are 2 7/8 inch square, scored and folded on the diagonal.

Obviously this size cube is WAY too small for the CD calendar inserts.  But I made two sheets you can print, cut and use to create a tear-off calendar.  You can see how to do that in this (old) post.  To add that to one side just cut a 2 3/4  inch square of cardstock .  Stick the last page of the tear off completely to this.

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Cut another piece of cardstock to 3 x just shy of 4 inches.  Stick the calendar piece JUST in a + in the centre.

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Tuck the edges of the 3 x 4 piece into the corners, over the insert, but leave the corners of the calendar base ABOVE the cube side corners.  Like so:

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Now the tear off sheets can be, well, torn off, of course, without disrupting the cube, and at the end of the year you can just take out the 3 x 4 inch piece and replace it with a new tear off for next year!

I used quite small photos, with just a dot of repositionable adhesive behind, to hold them in place, but allow for changing them as the mood, or newer photos strikes.

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You can see it is smaller than the 6 inch CD calendar cube.

This is something I think DH would keep on his desk – no flowers, no swirly flourishes, no colourful papers.  The font isn’t Helvetica or Futura or Gill Sans, but it’s pretty plain.

Now I’ll have to be on the look-out for other grid papers! With the addition of the cardstock inserts and the hinges, even this thin paper makes for a solid and sturdy cube.  And costs pennies. Result!

I think most tear-off calendar printables tend to be more rectangular the square, so these may not suit everyone.  I went ahead and did the Sunday to Saturday and Monday to Sunday versions – take your pick.  They end up as a 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inch square.

 

 

 


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A few cube improvements

I was considering those corners on the large photo cube from yesterday and thought of a few small improvements that I think will make a big difference to the overall look and function.  See if you agree.

1. The photos might shift over time – as you turn the cube or handle it, the photos might shift slightly, because they are not big enough to be held in place by the fur corners.  Only two of them really fully engage the edges. Simple fix is a bit of repositionable adhesive on the back of the photo.  That will keep it in place but still let you change them.  A more complicated fit would be to mount the photo to another insert piece and slip that in, but that is harder to get in and out and a waste of cardstock.

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2. The photos not fitting to perfection – remember that the 4×6 photos don’t completely fill the diamond?

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A simple strip of a punched border (or even a strip of plain patterned paper or card ) about 1 1/2 inches by just shy of 6 inches will help fill the gap.

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If you leave this loose it won’t affect the changing of the photos.  Again, you could add this over the photo,to another insert piece, but the full size insert IS harder to get in and out once the cube is stuck together!

3. The calendar could shift – a cardstock circle with a couple of pop dots added to the bottom will create a shelf to rest the calendar sheet on.

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Just stick that to the insert at the bottom then allow the bottom edge of the calendar stack to sit on it.

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When you stand the cube up in position, it’ll all get held in place.  You can add the punched borders as well, just be mindful not to cover any of the calendar!

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Tomorrow I have another option, one perfect for a manly desk LOL!  I also created some sheets for tear-off calendars so I can show how those work with the cube.  It’s not quite done but turning out really cute so far.  All will be revealed – and after I triple-check the Sun to Sat and Mon to Sun calendar dates I’ll add the tear-off printables too! Then I can stop being obsessed with calendars AND cubes {wink}


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Combining projects! Calendar Photo Cube

NOTE: Go forward to the next post to see a few small improvements!

I have a box that is full of old-style scrapbooking papers that I am 100% sure I will never use on a layout.  Back in the day I tended to buy not only a collection of papers, but multiples of them.  Whatever was I thinking?? These florals are never going to get used in any other way.

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I still have a load of different sizes of photo cube sides on my desk, and my latest calendar printables, and this morning, the two things just sort of came together in a creative collision.

This will make a fairly large photo cube, six inches (nearly) per side, but the advantages outweigh that, for me.  What ARE the advantages? The biggest is it is easy to replace the photos and add the calendar pages – WAAAAY easier than the other version.

You can:

  • use  full 12 x 12 sheets of scrapbooking paper to fold the sides
  • use two 12 x 12 sheets of cardstock to cut all of the inserts
  • use two sheets of 12 x 12 cardstock to cut more than enough hinges (I’ve altered the size slightly and don’t see it makes the slightest difference)
  • use 4 x 6 photos, either orientation, and only need to trim off the barest sliver off one side to make them work
  • use any CD-sized calendar printable and turn it from a photo cube into a Calendar Photo Cube!

I am not going to re-do the folding process.  Pop back to this post to see all you need, including a link to a video if that is easier for your to learn from. From here on it’ll just be the differences between THAT and THIS.

You need:

  • 6 sheets of 12 x 12 scrapbooking paper.  Cardstock really is too thick.
  • 6 sheets of 6 x 6 cardstock (paper is really too thin) with a sliver trimmed off 2 adjacent sides
  • 12 4 x 4 inch squares
  • double-sided (paper-backed) adhesive

The only difference in the assembly is DON’T add the base/bottom with the diamond facing inward – assemble it with all the diamonds facing OUTWARD, including the base. Once you have folded and assembled the cube, you really need to only select your photos (five for a Photo Cube and four for a Calendar Photo Cube).  Portrait or landscape, both work – see how close they are to a perfect fit?

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Just trim off the barest sliver.  Just enough for it to fit.  Because the photo does not totally fill the diamond, you can easily slide them in and out.  You do have to slightly bend the photo but nothing LIKE how you would have to in the more close-fitting version.

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Bingo

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Because the inserts are plain cardstock (and mine are white but you could easily use coloured card to make a feature of those triangles) I don’t mind those bits.

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The construction is just tight enough (unless you are tossing it around the room) for the photos to stay put. You can feel free to add a little stamped accent to fill the space (and I’d do all four so you don’t have to consider which side hold portrait and which hold landscape photos) or anything flat.  I don’t think I would try adding a flower or dimensional accent cause it’s just going to make getting the photos in and out harder.

If you print ANY CD case calendar printable, so long as you’ve printed a page and cut one to check the central design works once you slip it in, to turn it into a Calendar photo cube. Let me share my thoughts on this.  OK, sure, you could put two in each side (or three in four sides, or…whatever) but having more than one month on view is just confusing.  And putting a photo in the bottom side, the one it rests on, is a bit pointless – as soon as you rotate the cube to show that one, the other ones are going to be wonky.  SO, if you print and cut the calendar inserts, then group them six and six

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you can put the first six months on one side

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and the last six months on the bottom, hidden from view.

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Then you can simply remove the month when it’s over and toss it in the bin – sort of a more sophisticated and pretty (and bigger) tear-off calendar!

OK, yes, like the photos the CD inserts don’t fit the diamond perfectly but this is function over form.  If they DID you would never be able to wedge six sheets in a side, nor pluck out and bin one when the month changes. I don’t think it looks bad this way but again, coloured cardstock or some decoration might look OK if it bothers you as it is.

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Not something to make for every calendar person on your list, but the folding, once you’ve done it for one cube, becomes an almost Zen like process.  And I like the idea that you can change the photos at will and with ease.

For an easier and smaller one, use maybe 8 x 8 paper to start with and add the photos but stick on one of the small tear-off calendars on one side!

 

 


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Gelli print photo cube

What a palaver!  You may recall that the other day I was trying to find a tutorial for a folded Origami corner to create a cube.  I found it but the person who originally asked for it found a different version of it – that one matched what seemed to be the method I mentioned (from a no-longer-available HGTV tutorial.)  Well, the written “instructions” (and I use that term very loosely – having MADE one it makes sense, but they are pretty sketchy if you don’t do a lot of origami!) were there but the two accompanying videos were not. It wasn’t much like the original one she showed a photo of, but did a similar thing in an easier way, resulting in a much more stable end product.

I am glad I watched it when I first saw it cause for some reason I can’t make the video load – not here, not on YouTube, not on Pinterest.  I am going to leave it in place as it might just be a temporary blip but if it DOES come back I would highly recommend watching that video, if you are a visual learner.  It’s very good.  I’m adding step-by-setp photos because I am using a Gelli print on heavier than scrapbooking paper and there is one extra step that I found helped.  And I changed how you do the bottom of the cube so it sits flatter.

I am not using 6 x 6 squares to begin with.  That makes sense if you are using scrapbooking paper, cutting a 12 x 12 sheet into four equal squares, but I am using a print from an 8 x 10 Gelli plate.  There is a basic ratio for the elements so you can adjust them to make a cube of any size.

  • Size of starting square = X
  • Size of cube sides = 1/2 X
  • Size of insert = 1/2 X minus a sliver off two adjacent sides
  • Size of hinge = 1/2 X minus 1  1/8 inch

So starting with a 7 inch square

  • Size of starting square : 7 inches (X)
  • Size of cube sides: 1/2 X = 3  1/2 inches
  • Size of insert: 1/2 X minus a sliver off two adjacent sides = 3  1/2 inches minus a sliver off two adjacent sides
  • Size of hinge : 1/2 X (3 1/2) minus 1 1/8 inch=  2  3/8 inches

Starting with an 8 inch square

  • Size of starting square : 8 inches (X)
  • Size of cube sides: 1/2 X = 4 inches
  • Size of insert: 1/2 X minus a sliver off two adjacent sides = 4 inches minus a sliver off two adjacent sides
  • Size of hinge : 1/2 X (4 inches) minus 1  1/8 inch=  2  7/8 inches

Jeez – Math. Ugh.  Hope I got it right!

1. Print five or six Gelli Prints on 120 to 160 gsm cardstock (lightweight) – I did five and made the bottom of the cube solid. Cut your prints (or paper/card) down to a square (mine are 7 x 7)

2. Cut 12 hinges and 6 inserts to match your print size.

gelliphotocube

Insert = 3  1/2 inches minus a sliver off two adjacent sides
Hinges =  2  3/8 inches

Fold the hinges in half on the diagonal

 

3. Fold all six of the 7 inch squares the same:

  • Fold in half then unfold
  • Fold the two sides in to meet the middle fold then unfold

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  • Rotate and repeat – at the last unfold you will see the sheet creased into 16 squares

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  • Flip the square so the PATTERN SIDE is UP.  Fold each corner into the middle and unfold

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  • Flip PATTERN SIDE DOWN . Add a bit of double-sided adhesive in the four corners then fold each corner in to meet the closest score line

 

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  • Fold the two sides in to the middle

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You will now collapse this.  But use your bone folder (or blunt butter knife or fingernail) to really crease each fold.  This is more important on the heavier paper

  • Pull downward at the V

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  • Crease along the sides INSIDE the box

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  • Push the top part down to collapse and meet the first V

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  • and again crease well – with the thicker paper and the extra thickness of the paint, this will help avoid the gaping corners I got to begin with.

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In that shot all but the top right corner have been creased over.  Trust me, when you do it you will see what I mean.

Phew.  I bet you are now thinking my advice to watch the video wasn’t such a bad idea, right?  LOL!

4.  Once you have folded all six sides, slip the inserts into the middle to help provide structure to the piece. If you are adding photos, stick them to the inserts NOW – it will be hard to add them to the completed cube. 

You can wait till after step 11 – when the cube is assembled but not yet fully stuck together – and pull the sides slightly away to slip a photo in, and SKIP adding the adhesive if you want a cube that you can change the photos in.

I haven’t done that step yet cause I’m not sure what photos I’ll be using.  I’ll probably just cut the photos to fit within the insert area, leaving a bit of a border, and stick them to the insert after the cube is constructed. WATCH the video – I am pretty sure I recall her talking about making a template for cutting the photos.

Here are all the elements – might have one hinge off to the side 🙂 and you can see the black base is reversed so the flat/no insert side is UP

Gellicubeassembly

5. Add a strip of double-sided adhesive  across each hinge valley

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6. Peel off the paper backing (or not, if using the ATG) and slip a hinge into one of the side gaps

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Press firmly to adhere it well.

7.  Slip another side onto the other side of the hinge.  Make sure the diamond-shaped insert is facing OUTWARD.  Carry on adding the sides in this way till you have THREE joined pieces. Add a hinge to BOTH side-gaps of the fourth piece and sip the two hinges in to create the cube sides, like so:

5Gellicubeassembly

8. For the solid bottom, reverse the hinges so the insert diamond is facing up, and insert all four hinges like so:

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9. For the TOP, insert all four hinges with the insert facing DOWN.  See the difference?

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This gives you a flat bottom rather than the bumpy insert for the cube to rest on.  I figured that I could lose one photo area so the cube sat more solidly on a flat surface.

10. Insert the TOP of the cube first.  This way you can reach inside it and press the adhesive down fully. It’s more important that the top is stuck precisely than the bottom, as you will see it more.

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11. Close the cube by slipping the bottom hinges into the last remaining gaps.

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At this point you can still loosen the sides enough to slip in your photos.  Stop here if you want to be changing photos to update this cube, rather than making another one. The cube will be a little less tight, solid and square but it’ll still be mostly ok.

Finally, add a bit of paper-backed adhesive (or, I suppose, wet adhesive if you prefer) INSIDE, on BOTH sides of each hinge, to make a really tightly stuck, solid and neat cube! Once you do this there will be no slipping in or out of photos, trust me.

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Ta da!

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You could use a contrasting or more purposeful Gelli print bit instead of a photo and while it was a little fiddly, cutting them to about 3 1/4 x 3 1/4 let me slip them into the corners after construction.

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And I had this kicking around – one of the Spellbinders die D-lites cut without the frame – so I just slipped it in over the white insert.  Cute!

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And if you really did read that all, I’ll bet next time I say WATCH THE VIDEO you will do it LOL!

 


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Paper toy from a Gelli print

Just a bit of fun on a Monday morning.

You may know that I love paper sculptures and especially paper figures.  I was browsing thru a book I have of advertising templates.  It’s mostly packaging, but I always get inspired by it – seeing how to make flat paper altered into 3D sculpture is fascinating.  It often gives me ideas for other sorts of projects. In flipping thru t I found the most adorable little toy.  Frustratingly, there is no template for it in the book.  It seems to be just a photo.

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I had a little Google on t’internet and finally found a template to download.  It was a PDF.  Now, the PDF was mighty cluttered.

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There were words and pictures, and the lines were very faint.  Many of the templates were meant to be printed then cut and folded.  I wanted to be able to use a favorite Gelli print to make my spiky guy so I needed to alter it, just a bit.  One of the best thing about my odd little Mac-only program is that when I open a PDF in it, 99% of the time I can edit it.  All the little lines appear as individual line paths.  They can be deleted, or grouped and the colour changed.

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It’s a little time-consuming and takes a bit of focus, but in the end I was able to get to this.

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I wanted the sneakers and the hem detail to actually print so you could see it, so I changed that to black, instead of pale grey.  I stuck it over the Gelli print and cut it out.

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Using the extra little bits I managed to get the two arms and the top-of-the-head joiner, and in the end got this!

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It is designed to be cut and folded from plain printer paper – wanting something a little more sturdy I added some stiffer black card to line it – that worked a treat for the arms and legs, less well for the bit between the spiky ears – the extra thickness alters the “fit” slightly but I think I know how to solve that for the next one.

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Like most of these little oddball thing, he just makes me smile.  He’s small enough to sit perched on my drawer unit, or windowsill, on top of the router shelf, or anywhere, really.

Like I said, just a bit of fun and something to make me smile.  That, and the sunshine outside (finally) and DS coming home on Wednesday, makes me think this is going to be a lovely week!


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Circular Endless card (Flexagon)

Well, sadly, DS is off back to Uni tomorrow.  But he has hijacked my time to watch a favourite Anime series called Steins;Gate.  It’s a bit odd (time travel, sending texts back in time, alternate world lines, you know….)  but absorbing, once you get past the first couple of episodes.  A number of things all played a part in this little experiment and you know me – I like to credit people who inspires me. Let’s begin with Giving Hands Creative.  I had a hankering to make an endless card but wanted to make a round one – me?  I love circles.  I had the idea to do it with Gelli Prints, cause it’s been a while since I had a proper printing session, and the round plate is on my mind, so I thought I would have a little Google to see what I could find.  That link popped up.  That took me to Kiala’s Book-in-a-day series on You Tube. I took the time to compile them all into a playlist so they are all in one place and in order – there are at least 3 or 4 of them I am dying to try!

Anyway I watched the video in the wee small hours and then decided to have a go at it first with some images from the anime. It isn’t a total success, given the placement of the printed images but I think I’ve worked out how to do it better.  Having made an imperfect one, I can now more easily see how things need t be placed in order for them to appear as I want them to in the final card, as it “flips.” If you have never seen an Endless Card, this will help. That is only one of many so Google yourself if that one doesn’t suit you!

Start by cutting two identically sized circles.  Ignore the printing on mine for the moment – if you want to make an actual card you can just make the basic structure then add the embellishments, perfectly placed.

endlesscircle

 

I had already (stupidly) printed the circles and the printer paper circles I am using here were to practice the CONSTRUCTION, rather than the placement. I really should have done this step first then printed to fit.  What do I say? I make the mistakes so you don’t have to! LOL.

Fold the circles in half and be as precise as you can – both directions.  Use the first fold to line up the cross fold. Just match the top and the bottom on the first fold line to bisect the circle perfectly.

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Now, Kiala measures to divide her half-circles into 4ths.  I decided to use this scrap circle as a template and avoid the measuring totally.  Folding in the two sides to met in the middle will give you 1/4th on each side and 2/4ths in the middle – exactly what you want.

 

 

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See? The same basic idea will let the math-challenged use any size circle, even odd measurements.

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I drew the pencil lines to mark and then cut this template along the centre line.  Laying it over the printed circles I both cut them along the centre and scored them along the 1/4th marks.

My circles need to be one cut widthwise, one lengthwise, because I was using printed images.  For the basic plain card base you can do them the same.

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And scored:

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Taking another tip from Kiala, I added a tiny bit of tape int the middle just to hold the circle halves together. I got a bit turned around, and laid them out with all the folds in the same way – up.  They should be stuck with one circle mountain folds up, the other, valley folds up. Think of it as back-to-back if it helps.  Having said that it isn’t hard to just crease them back even after the card is done.  That’s what I did.

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The critical thing here is to line things up as carefully as you can. I found my gridded mat helped with that. If you look at it, you will see the folds delineate a small triangle on the bottom circle.

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Apply your glue in  just that small area.  I used wet glue but I suspect ATG tape might work as well.  Wet glue just seemed like it would hold up better as you flip the card. Stick the two circles together in the glued areas, LET IT DRY if you are using wet adhesive, then remove the bits of tape and start flipping! This is nowhere near as instructive as actual motion video, but you get the idea.  Let’s call this the front:

flipOpening at the cur across the middle so the top half and bottom half split and flip to the back:

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Flipping the middle arched sections to the back:

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Flipping the side half-circles to the back:

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and finally splitting the centre two bits out and back will bring you to the front once again – I won’t show it a second time!

Now, depending on how you begin, you will see different areas of the card with different orientations.  I may still try to work out THIS particular card for DS (just as a bit of fun) and if so, I’ll try to give some pointers.  But I also now hanker after making one from a 12″ circle and making in more of a scrapbook-y thing, with photos so I may just jump to that, using this flawed version to place things properly.  And I still think it would be fab with Gelli prints, so there is still THAT to try as well.  I also wonder if there is a way to work it out so the basic beginning shape is a heart (hey, Valentines day isn’t THAT far away…) then flexes even if the hearts don’t perfectly match up.  So I have a lot of ideas to fiddle with in the next few days, I think.

Do check out Giving Hands Creative too.  Like I said this is just one of many interesting books she did.  I admire her committment to a book in a day, and a book a week for a year.  Yu may find something that makes you rush to your desk, you never know….

 


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Card balls – a variation

I am still playing with the card balls.  This one is the octahedron version – it’s more like a cube, four-card units making 6 sides.  Luckily we have a LOT of spare playing cards.  But the slippery surface of the cards, and perhaps the construction method, makes the balls fiendishly difficult to lock into place without them all slipping apart.  I found the use, at least initially, of painters tape to secure the joins, helped a LOT.  I like the fewer cards – although the template says cut 12 cards, mine is def. 24 cards, so not sure if I got the construction wrong or if it’s a misprint on the template – and the fact it actually stands easier because of the near flat base.  I also like the fact that it’s easy to “see” a pattern for the 6  units.  On mine, the top and bottom and two opposing  side 4-card units are the number side, while the two other  4-card units around the middle are the backs of the cards.

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cardballI must have a go making a Gelli version to see if it works – I did deconstruct the first ball, but the slots will tend to force the ball concave if you try to join the points with the corners inside, which I hoped might create a smooth ball.  I might see if, although the angle and depth of the slits is slightly different in the octahedron version to this one, those card from the deconstructed Gelli-ball can be made to work.

I also (cause I’m obsessive like that) made a version from a stack of old paint chip samples.  The ones we get here can be sliced into two 3-colour bits, then the dividing bar cut away.  They are ever so slightly narrower then playing cards so I just made sure I lined up the left edge of the paint chip sample with the same edge of the template every time, and cut the slit a little bit deeper.paintchip

Like the Gelli-print version, the corners on this one are spiky, although that is surely enhanced by the fact I didn’t bother to round the corners.

2paintchipI think in the States paint chips can be found without words on them – I have a few in my stash that I think I got on a visit there a few years back – but the length of them may not work as easily.  Some are almost square, some only 4 colours in thinner strips.  If you fancy making one, see what you can find and play around.  Might be fun for a kid’s room, a few hanging from the ceiling in coordinating colours.  And as an aside, some of the things I’ve seen online seem to suggest this might be a good “math” activity, in the classroom or for home-schoolers.

Have fun with it – what else can I make a ball from?  Tube tickets? Business cards?  seen ’em – seen one made into what looks like a light.  What else???


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Gelli Ball Instructions

This just about did me in, to be honest. I had seen some samples using playing cards on a couple of sites and the “instructions” were long the lines of “once you start doing it, you’ll soon understand how it goes together” – yeah, right.  I was determined to figure out a way to explain the steps so it made sense.  The problem is, with a 3D object, all the photos just look so confusing. I’ve done my best to break it down and I HOPE it will at least help – but I d agree, once you DO IT it does start to get clearer.

Start with 30 playing card size rectangles.  Use the template here to cut slashes as shown. My sample is the icosahedron so be sure you use that template.  I made it into an svg but can’t add that here (first, it’s his template, not mine, second WordPress doesn’t allow SVGs to be added as a  file for download) but you can probably do what I did and make your own.  If not, just use the paper template to cut the slashes.

I Gelli printed 20 of them – some of the choices I made here were more to do with being able to explain the construction rather than because I thought they looked pretty.  So 10 of my “cards” are plain black. The rest of them look like this:

Howto4ball

A word about paper weight: The first one I showed was on VERY heavy cardstock.  250-300 GSM sort of weight.  THIS one I began with thinner card (more to see if it would work, although I didn’t think it would) and ended up sticking the cards to actual Bicycle cards.  The heavy cardstock ball is a bit … spiky is perhaps the best word, cause the corners aren’t very flexible, like playing cards are.  Sticking the thinner prints to actual cards gave the whole structure a bit more moldability.  I want to see if I can gesso and print actually ONTO playing cards at some point  and that might be an altogether more elegant solution, but this way you can use prints you have and like.

CRITICAL NOTE:  It doesn’t matter which way you turn the cards so long as you turn them all THE SAME WAY. So decide if your top edge slash will go to the left or the right.

whichway

MAKE SURE ALL YOUR CARDS ARE THE SAME. I simply cannot say that enough times.

OK, I started with the top of the ball all black – because I felt it would help you see the rows better.  But I actually like how it looks anyway.

1. Create a 5-card unit by interlocking the left card right edge slash with the right card left edge slash. Make sure the corners of the cards are all outside (5 cards)

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The hexagon in the top is what you want.  see what I mean by corners on the outside?

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2. Now, insert a card horizontally across the  ^   between each pair. Can you see how they slot together? (5 cards)

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3. Slot together five pairs of cards, like so. These will be inserted to join the horizontal cards you just added. (10 cards)

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It’s a little hard to see, but note that this forms another 5-card unit just like the top

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5.  Add another row of horizontal cards joining each of the pairs you just added. (5 cards)

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6.  Add your final 5 black cards to join the horizontal cards you just added. (5 cards)

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At this point I found it easier to flip the ball onto the first row (top)

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and interlock the final 5 cards to close and complete the ball!

For the hanger I punched six 2 inch circles and stuck them in two stacks of three.  I punched a hole in each stack.  I took a long piece of twine, and knotted the ends together then threaded the centre fold thru one stack, thru the middle of the ball, out the top hexagon, thru the second stack then knotted the twine close to the stack. Sort of like this. The red dots are knots LOL! as rubbish as my diagraming is, the photos are actually more confusing, with al the colours…

hanger

Here they are side-by-side – it only remains for me to dis-assemble the first one and have a go  with the corners INWARDS instead to see how I like that…

2balls


8 Comments

Use those prints? Or print on purpose? Gelli ball!

Sorry, now I am being a big tease, but I’m going to share my first iteration of this – the second one will have to wait, as will the instructions.  It’s nearly impossible to explain in words how to do it, I was fighting with another (non-Gelli version) all day yesterday and did THIS more as a way to solve THAT problem.  But it needs daylight for photos, and a couple of re-do sections (cause I’m a numpty) but when I get it all sorted (tomorrow is the plan!) I’ll share.

In the meantime…

Gelliball

And as it slowly rotates…

2Gelliball


5 Comments

Another Bathtub….

I often think of a project and then encounter some sort of stumbling block early on and it slips to the back of the queue.  Sometimes a way around the block will come to me in a flash and I may pick up where I left off.  This was one of those projects.

Back in May I mentioned that I had an idea for another Bathtub-Mary style shrine. I toodled off to the place where I knew I could find what I needed, image-wise, only to find the site had a redesign and the little pop-out image I wanted wasn’t there. Curses, creatively foiled again!

Then a stray comment about one bloggers project in BlogBits (on the UKS Home Page every week) prompted a PM exchange about, of all things, Stephen King’s IT.  While he and I may disagree on the quality of the made-for-TV-movie, we agree on the perfection of Tim Curry as Pennywise the Clown.  And over the years I have always sensed a little bit of a kindred spirit.  His blog was the blog I had gone to in May, only to be thwarted.  After chatting about casting the remake (Alan Rickman or Robin Williams as Pennywise?)  it occurred to me that I could just search for exactly what I had in my head back in May and I  might find the image I hoped for on a cached page or buried someplace other than the place I expected it to be and indeed I DID find exactly what I wanted.

A bit of printing and cutting and painting and sticking, a few compromises for a variety of reasons, and may I present…

Bathtub Dan

Bathtubdan

The image I needed was the one of cartoon Dan with the apple over his face – his take on the famous painting by Magritte, Son of Man.  He had referred back to the pop-out image in April, which must have been why I thought of turning it into a shrine in May.  I had previously skewered the same head&apple image in the same way I did the skewered Tilda head, for another online exchange we had, as a bit of a joke.

I took the painting, sized it, then cut three of the bodies and one of the apple.  Then I sized Dan’s head to fit and layered it all up inside the tub.

Bathtubdan1

DH wasn’t impressed with my theft of train layout ground cover when I did Marci so I used some ivy instead:

Bathtubdan2

I stuck with the white flowers rather than a more colourful selection. and I could NOT lay my hands on the scrap of metal I know I have and that I used for Marci’s plaque.  This one is tin foil covered card.

Bathtubdan3

Slightly wonky but somehow that fits.

I did dither hugely – should I post it?  Should I just request his address and mail it off?  In the end I decided to post it and see how long it takes for him to discover it.  Then I’ll arrange to send it off.  I know he reads here sometimes so maybe he’ll stumble on it soon.  If not I’ll drop him a hint to look.

And I thought, as tomorrow is WOYWW I would add a couple f desk shots so when I post tomorrow you will see just how bad it got.  Hoping for a tidier shot at the end of the day.  There is always hope….

preWOYWW

Oh dear…. You can see the remains of so many projects, and I didn’t even snap my side table.

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