Important note! One user commented the scoring marks on the templates were too close together for the card she used. Ruth re-did the plain template and will re-do the Oval one. They are now in Dropbox, here. Download the ones with MORESPACE in the name for the improved versions! If you plan to print and hand score/cut then the originals are fine, no need to grab the improved ones.
Added the single page templates.
- Click here to get the simple one (flat back)
- Click here to get the smaller original (fluted back)
- Click here to get the no-oval SVG from Dropbox
- click here to get the oval aperture version from Dropbox
Again, my night-time brain was working. I liked the additional fold at the back because I liked how it looked from above, but in the interest of making the whole thing simpler I altered the template. In doing so I realized a few more improvements this brings to the process. I’ll explain as I go along. And with luck I’ll be able to add another completed project and more on the final assemble but need to address some house issues (guy coming round to assess some work needing doing.) But I wanted to get this much up for you.
Firstly there is the template. I would love someone with the tools to create a cutable SVG file and send it to me to include. If you offer, I’ll accept!
The template is a PDF and of two pages. The two templates do NOT mix and match! Use one or the other. One is for the original card, slightly smaller, with the additional fluted back. I won’t address that one here, but if you really fancy it, it’s there. Trust me the simple triangle one is far easier and the difference between the finished projects are minimal. Where the original is useful is if you want to add something suspended in the middle – I will explain that is a future post with a project have in mind. But for now, let’s focus on the simple one.
Print 6 copies of the template on cardstock and one on printer paper. Not essential, but you can then get a template for the triangle. OR print one copy on decent weight card and use it to trace the lines on cardstock.
I’ve made the lines VERY faint grey. I hope you can see them here but you should def. have no problem seeing them when printed. This means that you shouldn’t have to worry about the lines being very obvious on your final project, and both sides of the paper are visible in different areas.
Now, score all dotted lines and cut on the solid lines. Crease the score lines crisply, towards the printed side of the paper.
Looking at the back of the paper I’ve marked the area that is the face of the box. 4 1/2 x 6″ blocks of paper will cover it with a slight margin. You want to cover the face of the card FIRST, before cutting the aperture.
In the original I used a Nestie bracket shape to cut the aperture. This one will show an oval. No oval Nesties round here so I’ll fall back on my trusty CM oval cutter.
Do mark the position so all the cut outs are in exactly the same position, It will make a difference to the final finish.
Looking at the back side, I’ve marked the area the will be seen inside the aperture. You can decorate the whole inside but you can also do just the back panel. Only a small area at each side will be truly visible so I’d say save your paper.
To assemble(and this is geared towards both ease of assembly and of having the template lines hidden as much as possible. For each triangle flap, put the adhesive on the flap that meets the center of your apperture. Put the adhesive on the INSIDE on the flap that meets the inside the box line. (Note: A added a small a on the flap that gets the adhesive. On the other flap add the adhesive on the back (unprinted-on) side. I hope that makes it easier!)
First stick both the flaps without the a to the inside of the card.
Next, stick the long flap to the outside of the card, forming a long pyramid.
Finally, stick the flaps with the a to the outside of the card, closing the box. With the aperture cut out you can easily slip your fingers inside the box to press down the adhesive for a strong bond.
The back will be covered in the cardstock that holds all the boxes in place and rolls up to create the outside of the card. But more on that later!
In fact you can print on double-sided cardstock so long as the printed-on side is a more muted pattern! That’s what I did here – and it will streamline the process even more. Due to the size you need at least A4/US letter size paper and can only get one from a 12×12 sheet of scrapbooking paper. The lines are faint but visible – and you can see the a here!
Just a quick tip for placing your aperture – line up a strip of card or ruler if it is the right width, along the bottom of the card face. Position your aperture item against that. It saves you having to mark your card.
and finally, a finished sample of the simple box, printed on cardstock.
The printed lines are almost invisible inside the box – you certainly wouldn’t see them unless you were really looking. And all in all the simple version (page one of the template PDF) is pretty quick, printing on double-sided cardstock makes it even quicker and omits the faff of adding layers to decorate.
There will be more to come on this cause you know me – I have to do things to death before I feel like I have exhausted the possibilities. Later today (or tomorrow) I’ll add the final assembly info, if you haven’t guessed how to do it already!